From the Atlantic to the Pacific via the Panama Canal

Funnily enough, this entire journey started with a desire to experience the Panama Canal. After traversing the Suez Canal back in 2017, the seed was planted and comparing the two transits was something we had to do – we just hadn’t expected to do it quite so soon!

Like last time, the closer we approach the canals entrance the more the anticipation grows. Conversations start with “Have you done it before?” and our daily Horizon newsletter offers suggestions on the best viewing points and a timetable of navigational highlights.

We have no real idea of what to expect – we only know that unlike the Suez, Panama does have three sets of locks which will act as a water staircase, raising and lowering the Arcadia. We also know it was tough going gouging this watercourse out of the dense, mosquito-infested jungle and we have heard upward of 40,000 people died in the attempt.

It’s still dark when we awaken and head out looking for the best viewing point. It’s a toss-up between the air-conditioned “Crow’s Nest” lounge up on deck ten or the outdoor viewing platform on deck eleven. As the Crow’s Nest also has “Captain Kenneth Puckett”, an ex-Panama Canal pilot running commentary the entire journey, we begin our ten-hour Panama Canal adventure here.

In a nutshell, the adventure runs like this –

Three times we (the Arcadia) squeeze ourselves into a tight little water chamber (lock). The fit is so tight you could touch the edges of the chamber from the bottom decks. Once inside, the gates to the chamber are closed, water is gravity fed in and our 85,000-ton ship slowly rises to the level of the next chamber. 

Three chambers, nearly three hours and 85 feet higher and we emerge into the 164 square mile man-made Gatun Lake. It takes approximately three to four hours for us to cross this lake and traverse the Galliard Cut, a nine-mile-long man-made cut that slices through the Continental Divide.

Once through the Galliard Cut and underneath the Centennial Bridge, it’s into the single chamber Pedro Miguel lock. Here, again only using water and gravity we drop 31 feet and emerge into the Miraflores man-made Lake.

Only one mile in length it doesn’t take long to cross the Miraflores Lake and enter the first of the two-chamber Miraflores Lock. Another 54 feet lower and one Bridge of America later and that’s it! In all, it’s taken approximately ten hours, but we have traversed the Panama Canal and are now sailing sedately in the Pacific Ocean. 

It’s about 5 pm when we leave the Canal. Due to a medical evacuation, It’s taken a bit longer than expected but the timing of our exit is perfect. With Panama City, looking much like a gigantic mega Gold-Coast glowering to our left and the setting sun on our right, the views are spectacular. It’s a fitting finish to the day.

Next Blog – Guatemala

Points to make.

1. It really is amazing how they manage to navigate these huge ships into the chambers. It’s a real testament to the ship’s captain and crew as well as the canal staff.
2. Each chamber has a twin alongside it which oncoming ships are using. It’s surreal passing these huge ships mere metres away.
3. It’s impossible to compare the Suez and the Panama Canals. Both are completely different. I do not have a favourite.
4. The 48-mile-long Panama Canal was completed in August 1914.