We have been in India for nearly a week now and it is every bit as we expected. Noisy, crazy, busy, smelly and crowded. But it is also so much more than we hoped. An amazing country bursting with activity, happiness, helpfulness and wisdom.
A Little About Delhi
Delhi, the current capital of India, has had a long and chequered history dating back to 400 BC. It’s actually a fusion of 7 separate cities, which together, form the second most populous city in India after Mumbai. Its population ranges from 20 million to 34 million when you include its outer suburbs. Its temperature spreads from 10 to 11 degrees in winter to 50 plus in summer and, according to our guide, there are 10,000 cars on its roads, and over 80,000 tuk tuks.
Why Visit India?
We have both always wanted to visit India, but for various reasons, including health, congestion and apprehension, never have (apart from when I was baby). With the war in the Red Sea scuppering our visit to Israel, India was tossed around as a substitute. It became a reality when I found a local India tour company – My Flight Trip. For much less than any of the noted tour companies, they put together an incredible Indian itinerary, found us guides and, most important of all, secured train tickets on each leg of our journey. Using a travel company is not our usual method of travel, but for India we made the exception and within hours of arriving, it proved the right decision.
An Introduction to Delhi
Recovering from a 3 am arrival to our hotel, that afternoon we decide to go for a walk. Our map shows a large shopping and eating precinct (Connaught Place) an easy 20-minute stroll away. What a mistake. With the temperature hovering in the high 40s, non-existent footpaths, traffic chaos and touts chasing us continuously, we learnt a lesson. You don’t walk in India. For less than $1, it’s better to catch a tuk tuk (which we did) or use a taxi.
What We Did in Delhi
Day two and we are ready to venture out again, but this time we have a guide (Sandie). Armed with someone who knows what to do and India becomes incredible. Yesterday was awful. Today we have the best day of our adventure yet.
Over a 9 hour time span, Sandie introduces us to some of Delhi’s most incredible sights, such as Humayuns Tomb, Qutub Minar, India Gate, Juma Masjid Mosque, Rajghat, and my favourite, Chandni Chowk or Old Delhi. Here we take a rickshaw ride, eat a kulfi, purchase some spices, snack on fried paratha and slurp a lassi.
What We Learnt in Delhi
Most astonishing we learnt that Delhi is green. Its inner city is full of trees. 25 years ago, industry was moved to the outer suburbs with the inner suburbs preserved and kept low rise. It’s incredible.
We also learnt a little about its impressive Prime Minister, Narendra Modi. About a few of his reforms such empowering women, an escalating gst, improving sanitation and housing the poor.
We learnt there are over 1300 mosques in Delhi. That it’s impossible not to sneeze at the Spice Market and that (according to Sandie), Travel is the best karma of your life.
The Train to Jaipur
While Delhi’s train station is bursting with bodies at 530 am, we stand out like sore thumbs. Most tourists steer clear of the city in summer and, unlike us who prefer to travel by train, most would take a private car or tour bus.
The journey takes 4.5 hours on a high-speed express. Memorable for the views of cows and Indians living their lives and also for the guy sitting next to us. His phone has just been pick-pocketed at Delhi station and he is frantic.
Arriving into Jaipur
It’s the most embarrassing arrival at Jaipur train station, where flower garlands are thrown around our necks and tourist turbans placed on our heads. But we are beginning to relax into India. To take the absurd, to laugh at the ridiculous and to surrender to whatever comes our way. To travel is to learn and India, as hoped, is certainly teaching us some lessons.
A Little About Jaipur
Jaipur, population just over 4.3 million, is the capital of the Rajasthan state. In 1876, its ruling Maharaja had the city painted pink in honour of a visit from Queen Victoria. Today, most of Old Town Jaipur remains this colour, hence its moniker, the Pink City.
What We Did in Jaipur
Armed with a lovely driver and flamboyant guide, our two-day visit to Jaipur was spent visiting sights such as Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal, City Palace, Jantar Mantar and my favourite, the Panna Menna step well. We walked its crowded streets, took videos of locals going about their business, learnt about carpet making and watched gems being polished.
We also stayed in the same hotel as Shane Warne once did, drank lassis for breakfast and ate masala dosas. We loved seeing the cows wondering the streets, but found it hard to come to terms with the poverty; the women clutching babies who knocked at our car windows, the skinny kids who pleaded with their enormous brown eyes.
Where Next?
This morning we got a taste of a really crowded train as we made our way from Jaipur to Ranthambore. A train where in 3rd class it would have been impossible to sit and hard to breathe. We are staying in a lodge and very early tomorrow morning, we board a jeep and go in search of tigers. Wish us luck.
