Two weeks is not nearly enough time to really understand a country, but with reasonably sized stopovers in four Greek locations, I can depart this incredible land with a much greater awareness. A much better comprehension of its kind and generous people, its breathtaking history, its varying topography and its mouthwatering bakeries.
Busing It from Athens to Nafplio
With trains being our preferred method of travel, it’s with some trepidation we board our coach at KTEL Kifissos Bus station Athens. Turned out we need not have worried. The bus was easy to find; the seats were comfortable and the views of Greece’s characteristic rocky mountains covered in bushy green foliage, captivating. Departing the major tollway, our roads did narrow considerably, often feeling like winding country lanes, but the abundance of olive and fruit plantations, kept us happily distracted.
Finding a Place that is Even Better than you Expected
When planning this adventure, it was really daunting to open a map of Greece and try to work out a suitable itinerary. Unlike other countries, I was so ignorant of this one. Our two-week itinerary turned out to be based more on pot luck than anything else.
Former capital of Greece, Nafplio, in the Peloponnese region, was chosen because it looked a good place to base ourselves if we wished to visit nearby towns or explore ancient ruins in this southern part of Greece (turned out we did neither). It also looked big enough to keep us occupied, small enough to be walkable, and pretty enough to be entertaining.
Our bus deposits us at the town’s main square. A large dusty area that has me worried. Fortunately, my concerns fade as we enter delightful, marble paved streets and roll our bags towards our accommodation. On either side of us, mouth-watering bakeries overflow with scrumptious Greek pastries, aromatic cafes coddle coffee drinking customers and shops taunt with tantalising goodies.
But what really is the icing on the cake is our apartment. Booked using Booking.com many months ago, its location and view completely blow us away.
From Nafplio to Loutraki
With a magic apartment looking straight out at the Argolic gulf, ancient castles towering over us, great restaurants and cafes, handy supermarkets and amazing seaside walking tracks, our three days go surprisingly quickly and it is with some reluctance we board our bus to Loutraki. The trip takes a little over 90 minutes and part of it involves a taxi that deposits us at our hotel.
Loutraki, a seaside town on the Gulf of Corinth, was chosen simply because of its proximity to the Corinth Canal. It’s a tourist town for Greek nationals rather than foreigners. Given a room with another stunning Greek water view, noting the large meandering beachfront precinct, perfect for strolling, and spying countless large cafes, I think it was a perfect choice.
Crossing the Corinth Canal
Having crossed the Suez and Panama canals, it was a bit of a wish of ours to cross the Corinth. Completed in 1893, this 6.3km long and 24 metres wide corridor turns the Peloponnese region into an island as well as joining two seas (the Aegean and the Ionian). With walls stretching to heights of 25 metres above one’s head, traversing it would be an experience to remember.
It took a lot of searching to find a tour operator who could sell us tickets on a boat that would navigate the canal’s length. Nearly every tour I found sold tickets that had you “crossing” the canals bridge by bus or foot. You could stand above the actual waterway and look down on it. This is what they called ‘crossing the canal’. Eventually, we found a site that sold boat journeys, but due to the tidal nature of the adjoining seas, crossings were not promised until a few days beforehand. We had booked our accommodation in nearby Loutraki knowing this, and fortunately, all turned out well. The tides were favourable and a tourist boat was allocated a crossing. We managed to secure tickets and were rewarded with an absolutely unforgettable experience.
Taking the Train to Thessaloniki
It’s another dusty day when we farewell Loutraki. Yesterday, on a hike from Loutraki to Corinth (a great walk that requires crossing one of the Corinth Canals submersible bridges and which I may do a separate post for or you will have to read about in my book) we had noted the smoggy sky. Enquires had revealed that most of Greece is currently covered by dust from Africas Sahara desert. A new phenomenon attributed to climate change, it’s happening regularly and means the horizon will not be visible for days and every surface contains a gritty layer of fine orange dust. It’s not very nice.
Taking six hours and involving a train change in Athens, it’s an uneventful journey. Inside, we share a carriage with 5 other silent passengers. While outside, the bush-covered hills remain but are footed by apple, peach, olive and cherry orchards. Surprisingly, we also note copious rice fields and later find this area closer to Thessaloniki is known as the Vietnam of Greece.
Touring From Thessaloniki
Booking.com has again served us well and we are currently staying in a newly renovated apartment. It’s on the 8th floor of an 8 story building (I don’t think buildings go much higher than this in Thessaloniki) and has two large balconies, one with sea views. We cannot see the streets below and all around us are the balconies of other apartments. It feels as if this is the urban equivalent of living in the Amazon treetop canopy.
Yesterday, escaping Thessalonikis cafe strewn streets and great waterfront, we took a tour. First to Pella, birthplace of Alexander the Great, then to Edessa, city of waterfalls. The final stop was at a vineyard in the notable wine producing town of Naoussa. Here, Darryl and the rest of our group sipped on great wines while I made do with a Greek coffee. A thick bitter beverage I am coming to really enjoy.
Where to Next?
Well, the Uber is booked for 7.15 tomorrow morning, which will take us to the city’s bus station. Here, we board a bus for a 5 hour journey across the Bulgarian border and into Sofia, Bulgarias capital. We have been hearing stories from others on our cruise about problems crossing borders as no one’s passports were stamped when we arrived into Athens. Fingers crossed, tomorrow’s travels go smoothly.
Last Notes on Greece
It’s been interesting getting to know Greece. I thought it would be similar to Italy given they are both full of amazing ruins with thousands of years of fascinating history, but it’s different. The people are not as suave or chic, but I have found them a little nicer. A little kinder. They may appear a little brusque on the outside, but they always wish you hello – Kalamarea or Yasos (my spelling). And always thank you – F hari store (my spelling). They stop to allow you to cross the road.
Regarding prices. I thought it would be cheaper, but it’s not. Most items, especially food, are equivalent to Australia.
And finally, remember Gus Portokalos from my Big Fat Greek Wedding? Toulas father? Remember how he managed to refer everything back to having come from or been invented in Greece? Turns out it’s true.
