Sarlat – the Dordogne Region South West France.

I think we have stumbled into castle wonderland and no – that’s not the rosé talking. Last week we caught the super fast TGV from Paris to Bordeaux. It took about 3 hours to travel the 600 odd kilometres. I cannot be rendered more frustrated than by the fact that Australia has not made the effort to invest in high speed train travel – it’s incredible.

From Bordeaux we caught first another train and then a bus. With the Tour de France due to pass through this region (Perigord/Dordogne) shortly – many main roads have been closed; resulting much to our surprise – in our huge bus hurtling down steep, narrow, winding side roads (imagine Tunnel Road). At one time we actually had to do a three point turn in order to negotiate a corner. While slightly nerve racking, the beautiful scenery, picture book castles and views of the majestic river Dordogne more than made up for it. Tired and slightly frazzled we arrived around 830pm, sun still shinning brightly at our destination – the medieval town of Sarlat – home for the next week.

(Our balcony)

Originating in the 9th century Sarlat actually has the greatest number of classified monuments per square km in the whole of Europe. Staying in a 500 year old building now a bed and breakfast and looking out onto the 800 year old town square, one cannot help but wonder at who else has passed through these rooms, trod these floorboards and gazed from this balcony.

Each day we wonder the town and each day we find another little street, square or shop not previously noticed. Each evening we either dine on another amazing menu du jour or feast incredibly cheaply from the local supermarket. We can buy a baguette, delicious cheese, punnet of strawberries, some chocolate mousse and a bottle of wine for less than 9 euros. We eat this on our balcony overlooking the town square – our location couldn’t be more surreal.
We have discovered that along with the cheese and strawberries which are unlike anything we have tasted before – this region also produces to die for nougat. Every day we wonder back to our favourite nougat shop and ask for another 100g of the stuff. Unlike Darryl who won’t touch it – I have also developed a taste for the local foie gras for which this area is renown.

To explain my opening sentence – this region alone has over 1400 castles – built mainly to fortify locals against marauding Arabs, Vikings, Crusaders, English and French armies, Catholics and Protestants – these castles are the regions legacy. A legacy for which the tourism reliant locals and private wealthy owners of some castles, are grateful.

Yesterday we visited La Roque-Gageac where we caught a Gabarre – an authentic flat bottomed boat down the fast flowing river Dordogne. Sailing past incredible geography, ancient castles, beautiful bridges and prehistoric caves we were regaled with stories of troglodytes (cave dwellers) and blood thirsty former rulers. From La Roque we went on to Domme, a fortified medieval town classified as one of the most beautiful in France before finishing up in Beynac – a tiny village with a huge austere looking castle constructed in the Middle Ages perched on top of a limestone cliff.

(La Roque)

The weather has been surprising us somewhat. On Monday – the day of our arrival it hovered in the high 20’s where it stayed for a few days before plummeting to about 15 degrees on Thursday. I couldn’t understand why locals wore shorts yet carried long jackets – now I do. It’s again creeping upwards with temperatures in the 30’s expected for which I am grateful. Tomorrow we head back to Bordeaux for a few days. One of Mullum’s longtime doctors has asked that we have a glass of Bordeaux for him. We fully intend to do so.

For more info and photos visit –
https://darmatravels.com/