Ok so we did cheat slightly. After failing to find an automatic camper van to hire then realising that due to the popularity of Ireland in the summer, all of our accommodation would need to be pre-organised, we cheated and booked a P & O seven-day cruise around Ireland. Covering four cardinal points – Cork, Dublin, Killybegs (Donegal) and Galway it gave us a pretty good overview, was cheap and resulted in another few kilo weight gain.
So Ireland. – slightly shabby, numerous shades of grey with glimpses of stunning emerald, rather tired but oh the people. Never, in all the countries we have passed through have we been so totally blown away by the (cheek, hospitality, fun?) of a nations occupants. For a population forever shrouded in grey clouds, whose economy has taken its fair share of blows, whose youth flee to other lands on graduation they are an amazingly resilient lot. There surely cannot be any other country like it and I cannot believe that this nation of happy, forever larking about (whats the craic?) people reside so close to conservative, happy to stand in a queue England!. (I can say this – I was born in England).
After embarking in Southampton our first point of call was Cobh – gateway to Cork but better still, half an hour drive from Blarney Castle – home of course, to that bestower of Eloquence – the Blarney Stone. To get to Blarney Castle we were herded onto coaches and it was here that we first came into contact with that fore mentioned Irish spirit.Imagine sitting on a bus passing beautiful Irish countryside with the bus driver singing ribald Irish ditties at the top of his lungs pretty much the entire journey. He was only interrupted by the lovely Irish guide sprouting facts about the fairy people and then accompanying him with his songs. We loved it.
Blarney Castle provided the opportunity to tick a major item off my bucket list. Kissing the Blarney Stone. Something that I had imagined doing since young and subsequently discovered that the reality was far from my imaginings. The Blarney Stone is situated high in the tower of 600 year old Blarney Castle, itself situated in private grounds. To kiss the stone one must first climb the 120 plus steep stone stairs, lie down on ones back, lean backwards (holding on to an iron railing) from the parapet walk, stretch ones neck and then pucker ones lips. The ground I lay on is cold, wet and slippery, the queue is long but its all worth it. And to those who warn of rumors of a urine soaked stone – it is only that – rumor. The location of the stone is testament to that.
Following the best Irish Coffee we have ever had and after visiting the Titanic exhibition in Cobh, that evening saw us puzzling the ships DJ with a request for “Sweet Child of Mine” at the sailing away party “first time I’ve ever been asked to play Guns N Roses at a sailing away party” (passengers average age – 70 plus).
The following day and we awake to the sights of Dublin. Dublin of course is all about the Guinness and after thoroughly exploring Dublin via the ubiquitous hop on hop off bus (another unforgettable bus driver – imagine driver singing loudly as he sways his double-decker bus down Dublin’s streets) – and its into craic headquarters – Temple Bar Pub in Temple Bar, in search of what most Irish call “the good stuff”. And surprisingly, after my first ever taste of Guinness, I agree with them. Its absolutely yummy. The day ended with another of those best ever Irish coffees, back on the boat and next stop north Ireland for Killybegs in County Donegal.
Having heard of the spectacular rugged Irish coastline – in particular the Slieve League Cliffs, our arrival in Killybegs (Ireland’s largest fishing port) saw us forgo the nearby towns and instead head for these cliffs via its untamed interior of peaty fields, pooled lakes and mysterious mountains. Having imagined the wilds of northern and western Ireland it was everything we imagined and more.
Final stop and its Galway – the most western of our Cardinal points. To get to Galway we had what was by far the worst sailing conditions we have yet encountered. Gale 5 winds and huge swell. It was into bed early and a sigh of relief on awaking. For Galway we had set ourselves a challenge. Purchase a pub t-shirt and have some more Guinness. Now Galway is not all that big – population 80,000 – easy to walk everywhere. When setting this challenge we assumed visiting each pub to find the best t-shirt would be quite simple. We had no comprehension that a town this size could actually have 77 pubs! Another of those quirky fantastic Irish things. Anyway, t-shirt was bought, Guinness was had and great memories made.
So that’s a snapshot of Ireland. A country of low-rise grey buildings, never-ending low grey clouds and high unemployment. But a country with emerald-green grass, wild cliffs and mountains, fairy folk, Irish coffees and Guinness. But best of all – a country with real people. People who will tell it like it is, people not afraid to have a laugh, take the mickey or to simply craic on.
So Darma travels is heading home – next stop Hong Kong!
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