We were told recently that Turkey had more Roman ruins than Rome. More incredible sites than Singapore. Having spent the past fortnight learning about and exploring some of them. I’m beginning to agree.
The Sleeper Train from Konya to Izmir then Onwards to Selcuk
In the 3rd century BC, a list of ‘Wonders of the World’ was compiled. Seven made the tally and two of these world wonders were in Turkey, the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus in Bodrum, and the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus. Our travels this week took us to Ephesus.
This sleeper train is a bit cleaner than the one from Bulgaria and with no borders to cross, it’s much less eventful. We arrive early into Izmir and already hold tickets for our onward train to Selcuk. Using them necessitates a 4 hour wait on hot Izmir station platforms so we decide to purchase new tickets on an earlier train. It’s an excellent decision as further south; the days are much hotter, today’s temperature will reach 39 degrees.
The Ancient Port City of Ephesus
For the first time, we nearly miss our stop when our train pulls into Selcuk, the best place to access Ephesus. Fortunately, and using his suitcase as a battering ram, Darryl does manage to alight and convince the guard to reopen the locked doors for me. Our hearts are thumping as we trundle to our accommodation.
Early afternoon and a thick haze covers the sky, mitigating the sun’s hot rays. We have a guide, a rather disheveled gentleman with a 50 year smoker’s cough. He knows his stuff though, and over the afternoon, leads us through both the Ephesus Museum and site.
Ephesus, today, contains a large amount of well preserved ancient ruins. Two thousand years ago, however, it commanded the western end of the Silk road and contained grand monuments such as the Library of Celsus and the Great Theatre. Of its most famous structure, the world wonder temple of Artemis, little remains. This burnt down around 356BC.
Onwards to Pamukkale
Today’s train to Pamukkale is memorable for the number of little old Turkish ladies made to return to their correct seats. I’m assuming they are seeking carriages with better air-conditioning, whatever the reason, their numbers are remarkable.
Pamukkale is one of those places you see in a brochure and know you have to visit. Well, that’s what happened to me. Derived from calcite-laden waters cascading down nearly 200 metre high cliffs, Pamukkale or Cotton Palace is an awe-inspiring alien landscape. A world of petrified waterfalls and blue tinged basins. A dazzling white vista that looks like salt or snow but isn’t. With their love of baths, it’s understandable the Romans built Hellenistic, a spa town here, of which its ruins remain.
It’s also a place difficult to navigate – the calcite is sharp and a coating of algae makes it slippery, and full of tourists.
Our Biggest Train Travel Day Yet
It takes two trains and 15 hours to return to Istanbul. From our train window we spy marble quarries and vast salt plains. We see cultivated poppy fields, shepherds attending their flocks of sheep, cows or goats and innumerable cultivated fields. It’s this later that has us stumped. Our travels around Turkey have shown that every square inch of it is used, mainly for growing crops. Yet Turkey doesn’t have great rainfall. Enquiries have disclosed that these fields are irrigated using the water that lies in huge natural underground basins. The country has been draining these basins for decades. We shudder at what will happen once they run dry.
Our Final Day in Istanbul and Onwards to India
There is only one thing I want to do before we leave Turkey, and that is to experience a Turkish Hammam or Bath. Originating in the Ottoman Empire (c. 1285 – 1923), it is a traditional method of cleansing that involves steam, heat, and massage. Istanbul is bursting with places that offer the service and so we leave Turkey squeaky clean. Throughly scrubbed, bubbled, oiled and massaged. Needless to say, Darryl is a bit stunned by it all.
It takes two flights to reach Delhi. We are upgraded to premium economy for our first and sit squished with the masses for our second. It is 2 am when we arrive and it is still 34 degrees. Making our way to our hotel and outside, we see countless people, children included, sleeping on the ground, park benches and where-ever they have stopped. It’s confronting and makes the smelly pipes in our hotel room irrelevant.
Where Next?
After our early morning arrival, today is a recovery day. Tomorrow we will really get out and explore this city of over 32 million people before moving onto Jaipur by train the day after.
