Hindus’ holiest river, the Ganges, has long intrigued me. Venerated by millions and affectionally called Ganga, I knew that if we were coming to India, then we would have to see her. And there would be no better place to do so than Varanasi.
The Overnight Sleeper Train from Agra to Varanasi
Our train departs at 7 pm, so 615 pm finds us waiting with the hordes of others on a sweltering platform. A last-minute platform change means we all stampede for the stairs and it’s frantic, disconcerting and anything but fun. The air-conditioned coolness of our train carriage is welcomed, and we find our bunks, make our beds, and prepare to settle in for the next 10 hours. It’s school holidays in India, so families with young kids playing on their devices surround us and the noise is intense. A few hours later, the sound of children is replaced by the burping, farting, and snoring of a carriage at rest. 4am we wake and half an hour later we disembark into the welcome care of another guide. I had been dreading this train journey, but it turns out I need not have.
A Bit About Varanasi
Dating back to the 11th century BC, Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. Flanked by the Ganges River, Hindu pilgrims are drawn here to bathe in the river’s sacred waters and perform funeral rites. For Hindus, those who die on the land of Varanasi will attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and pre-birth.
Sarnath. Where Buddha Gave His First Sermon
Despite a night of interrupted sleep, we are not allowed to rest. Our hotel room will not be ready until after midday, and there are places to visit. The first is to the archaeological site of Sarnath. One of the most famous, sacred and religious places in the Buddhist world. Where, in circa 528BC, Buddha taught his first sermon, thus starting the journey of Dharma (path of rightness). Visiting the site and circumnavigating its 2600-year-old Stupa, I cannot help but be amazed. I am walking where Buddha once trod.
The Aarti Ceremony Varanasi
Come early afternoon, we do reach the welcome comfort of our hotel, but early evening sees us back out on the streets. No visit to Varanasi is complete without viewing the iconic Aarti ceremony. A devotional ritual performed by a group of priests, dating back thousands of years, which uses fire, conch shell blowing and the chanting of mantras amongst other practices, to venerate the Ganges.
To reach our viewing platform, we first walk in via Old Town Varanasi’s narrow streets, then around the ghats (steps that lead to water). It feels incredible to be here. To watch the area fill (the performance occurs every evening and is attended by tens of thousands). To realise how much this all means to these people.
Sunrise On The Ganges
Still running on adrenaline rather than sleep, it’s another 430am wake up. This morning we watch the sun rising as we float upon the mighty Ganges. We pass ancient palaces that line its shores and watch as pilgrims bath. At the cremation sites of Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, we watch bodies burn.
Alighting at Manikarnika, we continue on foot, further into the heart of old Varanasi. The lanes are twisted and narrow and filthy. People carrying bodies for cremation pass us by. As do carts carrying wood, women on their way to prayer and free roaming cows. This is life here, and it’s been this way for centuries. It will certainly be a day I will never forget.
Back To Delhi Then Home
Our final train journey takes 8 hours and is the easiest of them all. It’s cool and fast and arrives at 11 pm. Back in Delhi means that we are very nearly at the end of our adventure. Yesterday we visited the Lotus Temple and BAPS Swaminarayan Akshardham, the world’s largest comprehensive Hindu temple. I also had some items of clothing made and are currently waiting for them to be delivered. Once they have, we will pack and at 5 am tomorrow morning, will make our way to Delhi airport. This will be my final blog for the time being. I hope you have enjoyed following along with us. I am unsure as to where and when our next adventure will be (I have a book to write first), but until then, take care.
