As the sun once again rises in the east, we continue our ever-westward journey. The Pacific Ocean – so familiar and comforting after the Atlantic offers us whales and dolphins while controversial countries slip by on our starboard side. Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador and today Guatemala.
Guatemala, home of the enigmatic Mayans – indigenous Indians who created magnificent cities and ceremonial centres like Tikal as early as 1500BC but who, by the time the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century were a spent force, their cities abandoned, their populations dispersed.
We know little of and expect little from Guatemala. Mired in conflict, civil unrest, guerrilla warfare and exploitation for much of the twentieth century and indeed its history since the arrival of the Spaniards, it’s little wonder our expectations are low.
With this in mind, we have booked a tour for our visit here. First, we are to visit a coffee plantation 90 minutes’ drive from Puerto Quetzal, our disembarkation port then afterwards the city of Antigua. Antigua, the former capital of Guatemala until its virtual destruction by an earthquake back in 1773 now a UNESCO world heritage site.
It’s a surprise to step ashore and find ourselves caught up in a bright colourful market. Full of modern stalls selling silver jewellery, jade pieces and intricate woven cloth maybe Guatemala has more to offer than we were expecting!
As our air-conditioned bus traverses the newly built dual lane highway we pass fields of bananas and acres of sugar cane; two of Guatemala’s main exports with coffee a third. In the distance, we spy three of Guatemala’s 37 volcanos and our guide Winston gleefully points out that one of the volcanos we are rapidly approaching is currently erupting.
Not having had a decent cup of coffee in weeks, our visit to Filadelfia Coffee Plantation is memorable not because of the immaculate coffee nurseries nor the pristine warehouses and machinery but by the fantastic cups of coffee we gratefully down. It’s, unfortunately, a quick visit due in part to us having taken two wrong turns on the way here but we do have Antigua to look forward too.
Antigua blows all on our tour away. With streets of 300-year-old cobblestones, shops and businesses tucked within colourful colonial builds and full or partial remnants of 17th-century structures such as the Universidad de San Carlos and the town hall, Antigua is totally fascinating and well deserving of its world heritage title.
At the main plaza Mayan ladies entice us with their richly woven wares, kids feed and chase the pigeons under deeply shading trees and the fountain gurgles. Our visit to the local bazaar or marketplace is equally enjoyable. Absolutely bursting with goods for sale the energy is frantic as tourists barter for gifts, jewellery and coffee.
Our journey back is interrupted by a flat tyre, but a replacement bus is quick to arrive. Back at Puerto Quetzal, we are unsuccessful in obtaining wi-fi – the only thing Guatemala has failed us on. Everything else – the facilities, the people, the places have been incredible and such a surprise.
Next stop – Mexico.
Fun Facts – Women with their neutral ph are the coffee handlers here. Men are too acidic.
